PADDINGTON

There are many people who just love Paddington. Its hilly streets – some precipitous -   are lined with colourful  old worker’s cottages, dotted with elegant colonial  mansions and crammed with cafes and shops. Many of the latter have established themselves in quaint cottages and  historical buildings that are often heritage listed.  Paddington has a patina  left from times gone by that makes one more aware  of Brisbane’s rich and varied past than other newer suburbs.

For thousands of years, its timbered ridges, lush deep valleys, creeks and water holes, were home to the Turrbal tribe of aboriginals, later called The Duke of York tribe. As late as 1870 they had two big camps – one in Armstrong Terrace and the other where The Paddington Plaza and Woolworths now stand .

However, by the beginning of the 19^th century, the area, just two kilometres from the city,  was already  densely populated by Europeans, cosmopolitan and vibrant, with a tram service to replace the horsebus that had previously groaned up the steep inclines. And it was able to change its name from Ti Tree flats and its address from ‘Back of the Gaol’ to Paddington, after the London borough.

Nowadays the main road which starts off as Caxton Street, then is called  Given Terrace and later weaves up the hill to becomes Latrobe Terrace is lined with popular places to dine and drink in some of Brisbane’s finest restaurants and cafes. There is an eclectic mix of classy boutiques, second hand clothes shops, real estate agents, interior decorating places, bookshops, antique shops, art galleries,   flower shops and even a guitar shop.  A stroll along any section of  the street will fill the eye with  delight and risk  emptying the pocket.

Top restaurants  where you are sure to be served something really special are Montrachet, the fab French restaurant, Grappino, equally fab Italian, right next door, and  Vida,  fab Spanish.  For something healthy try Fundies the cafe in Fundamentals (a large, interesting, well stocked Health Food  shop) –    and for something fast with a great fun atmosphere go to old and all time favourite Sassafras where you can sit in the  garden. Breakfasts at Sassafras are also great with a very buzzy atmosphere. They’re especially great at Lure too where they are served on a very pretty, tree covered terrace.  Kathmandu, a cosy, brightly painted Nepalese and Himalayan restaurant in an old house is  terrific  value. And don’t forget The Lark for a glass of vino  from their exceptional wine list or one of their very memorable cocktails.

Places for alternative medicine, health and beauty abound. Sowelo,  again situated in an old cottage, offers everything from pilates to yoga and hot stone massage or a consultation with hugely respected Annie Meredith a flower remedy practitioner as well as an acupuncturist and highly charged energy worker. The Latrobe Health Centre,  in a mellow  gentleman’s residence with two stories and lacework verandas  serves as a clinic for many different alternative therapists.

Then there is a gathering of small shops, with such pretty innovative things – gifts and for the house – that it is quite difficult not to be tempted to buy something. They are around the old Paddington Plaza, which was once a huge, ornate  cinema and is now a very crowded antique market It’s just  down from The Black Cat, a newly independent book shop, ex Mary Ryan’s, which has a wonderful veranda at the back that dips down the steep slope  into terraces in typical Brisbane style. You can drink coffee or chai latte there and  eat The Black Cat’s  delicious cakes while you sample their books.

If it’s clothes you are after there is a huge range of top shops for women. And Harry Henry’s for men does  tailor made suites from $950.  

The Paddington Pub – The Paddo –  has to be mentioned although some old customers won’t go back since it has been done up and totally changed. Still it is something of an icon and even the bus stop nearby is named Paddo Tavern 6.

For best views of what Paddington is really about take a look at the one from the corner of Given Terrace and Great George Street  (at the side of Ray white, the real estate agent)  the view as you drive down Prince Street with the city on the left, typical houses on the right and the mightily impressive Government House, a magnificent white  colonial mansion, set in its own rolling acres at the bottom  and just to the right in Fernberg Street. And travel  from top to bottom of Guthrie Street which should be nicknamed the ‘big dipper’.

By Catherine Mancham (Oz Tube)